Tuesday, May 19, 2015

OUAT Hordes New Costumes for Season 4 Finale

Thank you, oh patient friends! I spent last week finishing up a major writing deadline, and after that my fingers were DEAD. However I have a post chock full of all of those OUAT finale costumes for you to reward you for your patience! 

(all screencaps from springfield. Click for full-size.)

Also, these are screencaptures from the actual episode, so there WILL be spoilers. 

I can only imagine how excited everyone on the cast and crew must have been when the finale story was revealed to them. Certainly the costume department had a blast switching everyone up! Regina is clearly supposed to be wearing Snow's hunting costume, but I'm not sure if it is the same pieces or a new one made up to fit Lana. Thoughts?

Snow certainly loves being sparkly! I love the silver embellishment on this gown, but dread to think of the cost of replicating it! I also enjoy her sleeves, as Regina's tended to be fitted, not flared.

C'mon. We all burst out laughing when we saw Charming's guy-liner, right?

Lovely, lovely lace!

Charming has a nice 'stoner evil' costume.

Here is a good look at the textures in Snow's collar.

I am enjoying the fact that, even evil, they got Snow's trademark puffed sleeves in there.

More delicious collar detail!

This is the first time we've seen a fairy tale Snow with short hair. It certainly works with the character, but took some getting used to!

Zelena may drive me crazy, but I did enjoy her costumes in this episode.

Side look at Regina's costume.

Here's Belle as the wife of the Gold Knight - so of course she is wearing a yellow dress! This is not, however, a third incarnation of her gold ballgown, but rather a yellow version of the blue dress that has been so popular for OUAT cosplayers.

Here you can clearly see that the skirt is a much darker gold than the bodice and blouse.

It is weird, hilarious, and awesome to see Rumple in a full suit of armor.

He clearly stole Charming's role in this alternative universe, right down to the big fur collar on his cloak.

I couldn't find any good images of Emma's captive dress. It appeared to have long flowing sleeves, a pretty large skirt, and was embellished all over with black beadwork.

I really really hope that I get the chance to recreate Snow's evil red dress at some point!

Here is Evil Granny, bedecked with some jewels and a fascinator on her head! Lovely red shawl, though.

Seeing the evil dwarves was hilarious.

Another good look at Snow's sleeves.

A look at the detail around Emma's neckline! She's got a bit of feminine lace tucked away in there.

Here we can more clearly see the details on Belle's yellow dress.  The bodice fabric has a texture to it, and the blouse sleeves appear to be thickly gathered yellow lace.

There is also a bit of flowery trim around the bodice neckline.

More of Emma's adventuring costume. From the shine in her white tunic, I'm wondering if it is made from a raw silk.

The one appearance of Will Scarlet! Also, the back of Robin's wedding clothes. (No, there is no way a common thief would be able to afford such a rich outfit. The suit has to be possible only because he is part of Zelena's happy ending.)

I wanted a better look at Zelena's wedding dress, which seemed quite pretty, but this is the best I could find for details.

Full look at Emma's costume, where you can see the asymmetrical lines clearly.

Costumes in profile.

Rumple, trying to look heroic despite the physical realities of middle age.

A look at Zelena's necklace. She's just trying so hard to look innocent, isn't she?

A little look at the detailing and texture of Robin's costume.

Slightly blurred, but here we get our best look at Robin and Zelena's wedding clothes.

There you are, folks! Half of the costume budget for OUAT's spring 2015 run had to have been spent on these two episodes, and what fun it was to see the results!

Can't wait for the fall, and the potential that the Merlin plotline brings for costuming!

Thursday, May 7, 2015

Captain Hook/Killian Jones (with a Twist!)

You may remember that I did a "Once Upon a Time" replica of Captain Hook/Killian Jones two years ago. It was part of a big order that got rather crazy at the end, so I was really glad to have another chance to tweak and perfect some details of this costume. My client wanted to do a more female version of the costume, with a corseted vest. I think it came together pretty well!

This time around I used different patterns for the bases and it worked pretty well.

 I used Butterick B529, view A,  as the base for the coat, but made a lot of changes. I didn't use any of the darts, instead adding a curved seam in the back piece and taking in the waist further. I also cut out the center overlap and added a bit more flair at the bottom of the coat. It's a little difficult to gauge how much flair to do on this costume, because the style of the time is more flaired, but pleather does. not. like. flair. So next time I'd scale that back a bit. I also exaggerated the collar bits. I totally made my own lining pieces, and skipped the pockets. (Hook's coat does have pockets, but I'd need to charge more to do them, they weren't in the original replica I did either). I also extended the sleeves to create the cuffs.

For the corset vest I used Simplicity 2346, view D as my base, but added darts and changed the armhole slightly, as well as adding the two points in front.

The shirt was completely self-drafted.

Pretty happy with how it turned out!

Here you can see the back seams I added as well as how the pleather does not like to play nice.

The front of the coat should have been cut more straight, and this caused my husband a headache when he was pinning the twill tape embellishments in place. Because I've been having hand pain lately, my husband had to do any serious pleather pinning and sewing, which means he put all those buttons on the coat!

Unfortunately, I couldn't handle the physical work of invisible stitching the inside of the binding, and my husband didn't have the expertise to do it, so I had to outsource that to my former apprentice, Hannah. She did an excellent job and I (and my hands!) were very thankful.

The pleather and coat contrast were from my fabric stash, the black voile for the shirt came from Fabric.com, and the red brocade was something we found on eBay. (Weirdly enough, I find the best brocades on eBay.)

The coat buttons are the same I used on my last incarnation of this costume. They are the best design for the best price I've found, and you can purchase them in 3 different size options at Bennos Buttons.

The shirt buttons were really hard to find. I needed some that were smaller than 5mm and that's just not in high demand! Finally I did locate some at ThimblesandAcorn's Etsy Store, which was ironic because I've purchased from her before and already had a high opinion of her service.

There is a single strip of boning on each side of the vest opening. For a curvier figure I would have added more, but the vest laid very nicely on it's own, it just needed a bit of boning to keep that center lacing straight and firm.

The first time I made this costume, I used hooks and eyes for the shirt closure. Since then I was able to find a better high rez photo of the original show costume and could see that it appeared to be tiny button closures. So I made a bunch of little loops to hold them shut when desired.

Even though the collar will never be buttoned all the way up, the buttons do continue the full way for design purposes. Fun stuff...

So that's my latest project, folks! To see my other work, check out my costume page. If you'd like to commission your own piece, learn how the ordering process works here.